Ezcaray: Discover La Rioja’s Mountain Village
Ezcaray is one of the most picturesque towns in La Rioja, nestled at the foot of the Sierra de la Demanda mountains. While La Rioja is best known for its vineyards, Ezcaray offers a different side of the region, combining beautiful mountain scenery with rich history, traditional architecture and outstanding gastronomy. The town is famous for its colourful streets, stone houses with wooden balconies, and its long-standing textile industry. Throughout the year, visitors come to enjoy hiking, cycling, skiing, fine dining and peaceful countryside. Whether you are planning an outdoor adventure or a relaxing break, Ezcaray is one of northern Spain’s most rewarding destinations.
What to see and do
Begin your visit in the historic centre, where narrow streets are lined with beautifully restored stone houses decorated with colourful flowers and traditional wooden balconies. The relaxed atmosphere makes the town perfect for exploring on foot. Along the way you will discover artisan shops, welcoming cafés and excellent restaurants serving local Rioja cuisine.
The town’s main landmark is the Church of Santa María la Mayor. Built between the 12th and 14th centuries, this impressive church combines Romanesque and Gothic architecture with a striking fortress-like appearance. Inside, visitors can admire beautiful altarpieces, chapels and historic artwork that reflect Ezcaray’s religious heritage.
One of the most interesting attractions is the Royal Cloth Factory of Santa Bárbara. Established during the 18th century, it played a major role in the town’s textile industry. Although the original factory no longer operates, its historic buildings remind visitors of Ezcaray’s manufacturing past.
Nature lovers should head into the surrounding Sierra de la Demanda mountains. Numerous walking and cycling routes begin close to the town and pass through forests, rivers and peaceful valleys. Trails vary from gentle family walks to more demanding mountain hikes, making the area suitable for all abilities.
Just 15 kilometres from the town lies the Valdezcaray Ski Resort, the only ski resort in La Rioja. During winter, visitors can enjoy downhill skiing, snowboarding and mountain activities, while in summer the area becomes popular for hiking and scenic chairlift rides. Booking ski passes in advance is recommended during the busiest periods. Buy Tickets
Food lovers will appreciate Ezcaray’s outstanding culinary reputation. The town has become one of the leading gastronomic destinations in La Rioja, with several highly regarded restaurants serving traditional dishes prepared with locally sourced ingredients. Regional specialities include lamb, wild mushrooms, game, artisan cheeses and Rioja wines.
If you enjoy wine tourism, take a short drive to Briones, home to the renowned Vivanco Museum of Wine Culture. The museum explains the history of winemaking through interactive exhibitions, historic artefacts and wine tastings. Advance booking is recommended. Buy Tickets
Another worthwhile excursion is Haro, the capital of Rioja wine. Here you can visit famous wineries, enjoy guided tastings and discover why Rioja wines are recognised around the world. Many wineries recommend booking tours before arrival. Buy Tickets
Local festivals and traditions
Ezcaray celebrates several lively festivals throughout the year. The Feast of Santa Bárbara, held in December, honours the town’s textile heritage and includes religious ceremonies, music and community events.
The Patron Saint Festival in honour of San Lorenzo takes place each August. During the celebrations, the streets fill with concerts, traditional dancing, sporting events, parades and fireworks. Visitors are warmly welcomed to join local festivities and experience the town’s friendly atmosphere.
Autumn is one of the best times to visit because the surrounding forests display spectacular colours while local restaurants showcase seasonal mushrooms and game dishes. Many establishments organise special tasting menus celebrating regional produce.
Traditional gastronomy plays a central role in Ezcaray’s culture. Throughout the year, food festivals and local markets promote artisan cheeses, cured meats, honey, Rioja wines and handmade crafts. These events allow visitors to experience authentic village life while supporting local producers.
Where to stay
The Historic Centre is the best area to stay in Ezcaray. Boutique hotels, rural guesthouses and traditional inns occupy beautifully restored stone buildings close to restaurants, shops and the main square. Staying here allows visitors to explore the town entirely on foot while enjoying its charming evening atmosphere.
If you prefer nature and tranquillity, choose accommodation on the outskirts of the town overlooking the mountains. These rural hotels offer peaceful surroundings and easy access to hiking trails. During the ski season, many visitors stay near the road leading to Valdezcaray Ski Resort, providing convenient access to the slopes while remaining close to the town’s restaurants and services. Families, couples and outdoor enthusiasts will all find accommodation suited to their needs. Book Accommodation
How to get to Ezcaray
Ezcaray is located in western La Rioja and is easiest to reach by road. Driving provides the greatest flexibility, particularly if you plan to explore nearby villages, vineyards and the Sierra de la Demanda mountains. Hire a Car If you are already in Spain, you can click here to get directions from your current location.
The nearest airport is Logroño–Agoncillo Airport, approximately one hour away by car. Visitors travelling internationally often choose Bilbao Airport, which offers a much wider range of domestic and international flights and is around two hours from Ezcaray.
Ezcaray does not have its own railway station. The nearest rail connections are available in Logroño, where visitors can continue by road or regional bus. Travelling by train offers a comfortable option when arriving from Madrid, Zaragoza or other major Spanish cities. Check connections
Regional bus services operate between Ezcaray and Logroño, with additional connections to neighbouring towns throughout La Rioja. Although services are less frequent than in larger cities, buses provide an affordable alternative for visitors without a car. Buy Tickets
Whether you arrive for hiking, skiing, gastronomy or simply to relax, Ezcaray offers an authentic experience that combines mountain scenery, Rioja hospitality and traditional Spanish charm. Its welcoming atmosphere, outstanding food and beautiful natural surroundings make it one of La Rioja’s hidden gems.
