Pamplona’s old town is at its best early in the day, when café counters are filling with tortilla, the streets are still quiet, and the city belongs to residents rather than tour groups. From there, one week in Navarre can take you from medieval pilgrimage towns to beech forests, dramatic Pyrenean valleys, vineyard country and a near-desert landscape in the south. Few Spanish regions pack such different scenery into such a manageable distance.
This is a road trip for travellers who enjoy stopping in small towns, taking the long way to lunch, and changing plans when a village square looks too good to rush through. A car is strongly recommended. Public transport works for Pamplona and a few larger towns, but it is not practical for linking the Pyrenees, Irati Forest and Bardenas Reales on a short trip.
One week in Navarre: the best route by car
The route below begins and ends in Pamplona, then travels clockwise through the northern mountains, central wine country and southern plains. It avoids treating Navarre as a quick detour between Bilbao and Barcelona, which would miss the region’s real character.
Day 1: Pamplona beyond the running of the bulls
Give Pamplona a full day, even if San Fermín is not on your travel calendar. Walk the old town’s compact lanes, the Plaza del Castillo and the route used during the famous July bull run. The city’s historic centre is easy to explore on foot, but make time for the impressive city walls and the leafy Citadel park.
For dinner, follow the local rhythm rather than eating early. Bars around Calle de San Nicolás and Calle de la Estafeta are good for pintxos, but do not simply choose the busiest counter. Look for places where locals are ordering small plates and standing with a drink. A plate of mushrooms, cured ham or bacalao can be more memorable than a formal meal.
Stay in Pamplona for two nights if you prefer a slower start. Otherwise, one night is enough before heading north.
Day 2: Roncesvalles and the Camino country
Drive north-east towards Roncesvalles, a deeply atmospheric stop on the Camino de Santiago. The Collegiate Church and its surroundings have a quiet, high-country feel, especially outside the main walking season. Pilgrims arrive tired, day-trippers pause briefly, and mist can settle over the hills even when Pamplona is warm.
Continue through the small villages of the Aezkoa Valley, where stone houses, red-tiled roofs and green pastures replace the city’s sandstone streets. Burguete and Aribe make worthwhile coffee stops. If you have time, take minor roads rather than the fastest route, but keep an eye on daylight in cooler months.
Overnight near Ochagavía or in the Salazar Valley. Ochagavía is a particularly appealing base, with narrow streets, traditional houses and a setting close to the forest.
Day 3: Irati Forest and Ochagavía
Irati Forest is one of the great reasons to visit Navarre. This vast beech and fir woodland feels remarkably wild by western European standards, especially on a weekday outside school holidays. Autumn brings the famous colours, but spring and early summer are often better for walking without crowds.
Choose a route that matches your fitness and the weather rather than trying to cover every trail. The area around the Irabia Reservoir offers accessible woodland walks, while longer routes suit experienced hikers with proper footwear and layers. Conditions can turn cool and wet quickly, even in September.
Return to Ochagavía for a relaxed evening. This is a good place to order regional lamb, trout or a warming bean dish. Book ahead on weekends, as small-town dining rooms may have limited tables.
Day 4: The Roncal Valley, then south to Olite
Before leaving the mountains, consider a detour east into the Roncal Valley. Isaba, with its slate-roofed buildings and mountain backdrop, is a handsome final taste of northern Navarre. The drive is scenic but involves bends and elevation, so it is best enjoyed without a tight schedule.
From here, head south towards Olite. The landscape changes steadily: forests give way to open farmland, low hills and vineyards. Olite’s Royal Palace is the visual centrepiece of the town, a fanciful-looking complex of towers, courtyards and staircases that feels more theatrical than defensive.
Spend the night in or near Olite. Its compact centre is especially pleasant after day visitors have left, and the town makes a convenient base for Navarre’s wine country.
Day 5: Olite, Ujué and wine country
Start with the palace if you did not visit the previous afternoon, then drive to Ujué. Perched high above the surrounding plains, this small village rewards the climb with sweeping views and a striking fortified church. It can be windy, so bring an extra layer even on sunny days.
The afternoon is for a winery visit or a slow lunch in the countryside. Navarre produces excellent rosé, red and white wines, although the region is less internationally famous than neighbouring Rioja. That is part of the appeal: cellar doors often feel grounded in local life rather than designed around a polished tourism experience.
It is worth checking opening times before setting out. Many wineries require reservations, particularly outside the harvest period, and some close for a long lunch break.
Day 6: Bardenas Reales and Tudela
Drive south to Bardenas Reales, one of Spain’s most unexpected landscapes. Eroded hills, dry tracks and wide skies create a stark contrast with the green north. The main routes can be explored by car, but conditions and access rules vary after heavy rain or during periods of conservation work.
Do not treat Bardenas as a place for off-road improvisation. Stay on permitted tracks, carry water, and avoid the hottest part of the day from late spring to early autumn. There is little shade and no reason to rely on a mobile signal.
Base yourself in Tudela for the night. Its old town is lively without feeling overrun, and it is one of Navarre’s best places to eat. The city is particularly known for vegetables from the fertile Ebro valley: artichokes, asparagus, peppers and tomatoes feature proudly on local menus.
Day 7: Tudela to Pamplona via a smaller town
Use your final day to travel back to Pamplona at an unhurried pace. If you enjoy religious architecture and historic towns, stop in Tafalla or Sangüesa, depending on your preferred route and flight plans. Sangüesa has fine Romanesque details, while Tafalla is a useful, everyday Navarre town rather than a staged tourist stop.
If your return flight is from Bilbao, it may make more sense to finish in the western part of Navarre instead. In that case, swap the Bardenas and Tudela section for the Baztan Valley, Elizondo and the green hills around the French border. Navarre rewards choosing fewer places well, not ticking off every corner of the map.
Practical notes for a Navarre road trip
Distances are modest, but driving times can be deceptive. Mountain roads are slow, villages invite stops, and a two-hour route can easily become four with lunch and a walk. Fill up with petrol before heading into the Pyrenees, keep water in the car, and download maps for rural areas where coverage can be patchy.
For this itinerary, late May to June and September to October are the most comfortable periods. Summer is excellent for high-country walks but very hot in Bardenas Reales and Tudela. Autumn is beautiful in Irati Forest, though it is also one of the busiest times for accommodation. Winter can be rewarding for city breaks and food, but snow and ice may affect mountain roads.
Accommodation is best split between Pamplona, the Ochagavía area, Olite and Tudela. Booking small hotels or guesthouses in advance matters most on weekends, during San Fermín in July, and throughout peak autumn colour. In mountain villages, confirm whether dinner is served on site or whether the nearest restaurant is a short drive away.
What to eat along the way
Navarre’s cooking changes with the landscape. In Pamplona, start with pintxos and local cider or wine. In the north, look for lamb, game in season, mushrooms and sheep’s milk cheese. Central Navarre is strong on roast meats, beans and wine, while Tudela is the place to order vegetables with confidence rather than treating them as a side dish.
Meal times remain later than many travellers expect. Lunch commonly begins around 2 pm, and dinner before 8 pm can limit your options outside bigger towns. A late Spanish lunch is often the best way to turn a driving day into part of the holiday rather than simply the gap between sights.
Leave room in your plan for the places that do not appear on a must-see list: a bakery in a mountain village, a bar full of locals watching football, or a viewpoint above Ujué when the plains stretch all the way to the horizon. That is where Navarre tends to stay with you.