Aiguablava: A Friendly Guide to This Costa Brava Gem
Picture a small bay with turquoise water, pine-covered cliffs and a sheltered beach. That’s Aiguablava, a tiny seaside spot on Spain’s Costa Brava. It sits in the municipality of Begur, in Catalonia’s Girona province. Strictly speaking, it’s more a cove than a town. Even so, it packs in plenty of charm.
Aiguablava suits couples, families and walkers alike. You can swim, snorkel, hike or simply relax with a sea view. Better still, the bay stays calm and peaceful outside the busy summer months. Spring and autumn are lovely times to visit, with fewer crowds and mild weather. Summer is livelier, but you’ll need to book ahead. So, let’s plan your trip.
What to see and do
Start with the beach itself. Platja d’Aiguablava is a sandy cove wrapped in rocky cliffs. Those rocks shelter the water, so it stays calm and clear. Boats often anchor here, which adds to the postcard look. Pack a mask and snorkel, because the water is perfect for exploring. If you’d like more choice, Sa Riera is another popular beach nearby. It’s easy to reach by car.
Next, walk the Camà de Ronda. This old coastal path follows the cliffs and links one cove to the next. Head south from Aiguablava, and you’ll reach Fornells beach in about 15 minutes. Carry on, and you’ll arrive at Tamariu. Going north towards Begur Cape is tougher, so wear good shoes and bring plenty of water. Along the way, you’ll also spot little coves such as Sa Tuna, Aiguafreda and Platja Fonda.
Then, take a look at the Parador de Aiguablava. It perches on the Punta d’es Muts cliffs, surrounded by pine trees. The views over the bay are superb. For a treat, book a table at its beachside restaurant, Mar i Vent. There, you can try local classics such as susquet de peix, a tasty fish stew.
Afterwards, drive up to the Begur Castle viewpoint. The castle first appears in records in the 11th century. Today, you’ll see the base of the keep and some walls. However, the real prize is the 360-degree view over the town and coast. A paved ramp leads up from the car park, and it’s a short walk.
Once you’ve finished, wander through Begur’s old streets. Look out for the elegant Indiano houses. Locals built them after making their fortunes in Cuba and the Americas in the 19th century. Nearby, the medieval villages of Pals and Peratallada are also worth a visit. Their stone lanes are lovely for a slow stroll.
Finally, art lovers can take a day trip to Figueres. There, the Dalà Theatre-Museum holds the largest collection of Salvador DalÃ’s work. It’s hugely popular, so booking ahead is a smart move. Buy tickets and skip the queue.
Local festivals and traditions
Aiguablava is tiny, so most celebrations happen in nearby Begur. Even so, they’re well worth the short trip. Restaurants fill up quickly on festival weekends, so book a table early.
The biggest event is the Fira d’Indians, held on the first weekend of September. It celebrates Begur’s strong link with Cuba, thanks to locals who emigrated in the 19th century. During the fair, the old town becomes a Caribbean street party. You’ll find an overseas market, Cuban bands, street shows and traditional habaneras. These slow, swaying songs travelled home with the emigrants. Many Indiano houses even turn into pop-up bars. As a result, it’s a rare chance to peek inside them.
Then comes the Festa Major de Santa Reparada, held around the middle of September. It marks the shift from summer to autumn. Look out for Las Cubanitas de Begur, a group of women who sing habaneras and boleros. There’s also a popular communal rice feast, called the arrossada, in Parc de l’Arbreda.
Music fans should also check out La Cruïlla d’Ultramar. This series of concerts starts in late July and builds up to the Fira d’Indians. Later, in October, the Begur Comedy Film Fest fills the Casino Cinema for a week. Dates change each year, so check the Visit Begur website before you book.
Where to stay
Aiguablava has a few special places to sleep, and Begur adds plenty more. Choosing the right area makes a big difference to your trip.
For sea views, stay right in the bay. The Parador de Aiguablava sits high on the cliffs. It has a pool, a sauna, a gym and a restaurant. Almost all rooms have balconies with panoramic views. Close by, Hotel Aigua Blava overlooks the Fornells and Aiguablava bays. This four-star hotel has 80 rooms, leafy gardens, a pool and a tennis court. Both places are steps from the sand, and Hotel Aigua Blava offers free parking. That’s handy, since you won’t need to drive far once you arrive.
If you’d like a livelier base, choose Begur old town. Boutique hotels fill its stone houses, and cafés and restaurants sit on your doorstep. It’s a short drive from the beaches, and it feels wonderfully authentic. However, you’ll want a car or taxi to get down to the coast. Alternatively, try Fornells, just around the headland, for a calm, beachy stay.
On a tighter budget, look at campsites and apartments around Begur. Wherever you choose, book early for July and August, because rooms go fast. Book your accommodation.
How to get to Aiguablava
Two airports serve the area. Girona–Costa Brava Airport is the closest, about 58 km from Begur. Barcelona–El Prat Airport is roughly 145 km away, but it has more flights. From either airport, you’ll need a car, bus or taxi to finish the journey. Book flights.
Trains don’t run to Begur. The nearest station is Flaçà , about 31 km away. From there, take a bus towards Palafrugell and Begur, or hop in a taxi. Alternatively, ride the train to Girona and change to a bus. Check trains and book.
A car gives you the most freedom on the Costa Brava. Many visitors hire one at the airport. Hire a car. From Barcelona, it’s about 133 km to Begur. Take the AP-7 towards Girona and leave at exit 9A-9B. Then follow signs to Sant Feliu de GuÃxols and Platja d’Aro. Next, continue towards Palamós, and take the GI-653 road to Begur. Aiguablava is only a few minutes further on. Already in Spain? Get directions.
Buses are another option. Sarfa coaches run from Barcelona’s Estació d’Autobusos Nord to Begur several times a day. The trip takes roughly two hours. From Begur, take a taxi to the bay. In summer, a shuttle bus may also run to the beach. Buy tickets.