Martos: Castles, Olive Groves and Mountain Views
Martos sits in the heart of Jaén province in southern Spain. A huge rock called La Peña towers over the town. Two castles guard the slopes, and olive groves stretch in every direction. In fact, Martos is known as a cradle of olive growing.
Most travellers zoom past on their way to Granada or Córdoba. That’s a shame. Martos is relaxed, friendly and packed with history. Better still, you will share its streets with locals rather than crowds. This guide covers what to see, local festivals, where to stay and how to get there. If you have more time, the Renaissance towns of Úbeda and Baeza are close by.
What to see and do
Start with the Castillo de la Peña. The Order of Calatrava built this fortress from around 1340, high on the rock. Its walls follow the shape of the plateau, and the old entrance zigzags for defence. Today the ruins are atmospheric, and the views are huge. Olive trees roll away to the horizon. The rock reaches 1,003 metres, so wear good shoes. A path climbs from the Ermita de San Bartolomé, and the walk takes some effort.
Next, drop back down to the Castillo de la Villa. This urban castle completes the pair of Calatrava defences that once protected the border with the Kingdom of Granada. Its Torre del Homenaje gives excellent views over the fortress and the old town.
The beating heart of town is Plaza de la Constitución. The town hall sits here in the old jail and council house. Francisco del Castillo, a local architect and sculptor, designed its façade. Nearby, Iglesia de Santa Marta stands on the site of an earlier mosque.
Then wander to the Fuente Nueva. Francisco del Castillo finished this fountain in 1586. It is a fine piece of Mannerist Renaissance design. The square around it hosts Holy Week processions, and some of them date back to the Baroque era. The Santuario de la Virgen de la Villa also deserves a visit. Its handsome bell tower is another of Francisco del Castillo’s works.
History fans can explore beyond the centre. The Puente Romano crosses the Arroyo Salado. Meanwhile, the Castillo de la Encomienda de VÃboras sits in the Sierra Caracolera, near Las Casillas. Afterwards, stroll through Parque Manuel Carrasco, home to the municipal theatre and the fairground. Allow a full day at least. The old town is compact, but the hills tire your legs, so take breaks in a café.
Olive oil lovers have plenty to enjoy too. Martos sits in prime olive country, so ask the tourist office about mill visits and tastings. Try a peppery oil with fresh bread, and you will soon understand the fuss. If you want another stop, Alcalá la Real makes an easy day trip.
Local festivals and traditions
Martos knows how to celebrate. Holy Week is a highlight. Solemn processions wind through the old streets, and Fuente Nueva square is a key setting. Locals take these events very seriously, so expect crowds and heartfelt devotion.
In late spring, the RomerÃa de la Virgen de la Victoria takes over. It happens on the last Sunday of May. Pilgrims gather on the open land around La Peña. The Virgin is closely tied to the rock, so the day mixes faith, food and fun. Bring a hat, because the Andalusian sun is strong.
August brings the Feria y Fiestas de San Bartolomé. The fairground fills with music, dancing and late-night tapas. In addition, the Fiesta de la Aceituna celebrates the olive, the crop at the heart of local life. Other dates worth knowing include the Three Kings parade, Carnaval and the Fiesta de San Juan de Dios. Check the town’s tourism website for current dates before you book.
Where to stay
Martos is small, so you can walk almost everywhere. Even so, where you sleep shapes your trip. The historic centre around Plaza de la Constitución is the best choice for most visitors. You will be steps from the castles, churches and tapas bars. Plus, evening strolls here feel wonderfully relaxed.
Next, consider the area around Fuente Nueva and Parque Manuel Carrasco. It is greener and quieter. You will also be close to the theatre and the fairground, which helps during festivals. Meanwhile, the streets at the foot of La Peña suit walkers. You can set off for the rock straight after breakfast.
If you want peace, look at the countryside. Rural houses sit among the olive groves around Martos. You will wake to birdsong and big skies. However, you will need a car to get around. Finally, Jaén city is only about 25 km away. It offers more choice, so it works well in busy weeks. Search properties with Free Cancellation on Booking.com.
How to get to Martos
Martos has no airport of its own. The nearest option is Federico GarcÃa Lorca Granada-Jaén Airport, roughly 100 km away. Málaga Airport has far more international flights and sits around two hours away by car. Check flights and Buy Tickets with Booking.com.
Trains are trickier. Martos is not well served by rail, so most visitors head for Jaén first. From Córdoba, you can catch a train to Jaén, then hop on a local bus. Seville and Málaga both connect to Córdoba, so those routes work too. Check Train Schedules and Buy Tickets on Omio.
Buses are simple. ALSA runs services via Jaén, and there is a direct daily bus from Antequera. Málaga also has one daily service. Granada has no direct bus, so you change at Jaén or Alcaudete. Sit back and enjoy the olive groves. Check Bus Schedules and secure your seat on Omio.
A car gives you the most freedom. Rural lanes and olive mills are much easier to reach with your own wheels. You can collect one at the airport or in Granada. Hire a car with Discovercars.
The drive is straightforward. From Jaén, take the A-316 for around 25 minutes. Granada is about 1.5 hours away, and Antequera takes a similar time. From Seville, allow almost three hours. Already in Spain? Get directions.