Tamariu: A Small Costa Brava Cove Worth Visiting

Tamariu is one of the prettiest little beach towns on the Costa Brava. Pine trees and rocky headlands hug its sheltered bay. White houses line the seafront, and the water stays calm and clear. As a result, Tamariu feels a world away from the busier resorts along the coast.

Long ago, Tamariu was just a small fishing village. Today, it still has that relaxed feel. The village belongs to Palafrugell, along with its neighbours Llafranc and Calella de Palafrugell. Of the three, Tamariu is the smallest and wildest. It makes a perfect base for a beach holiday, a walking trip or a quiet weekend away. So, if you want lazy beach days and cliff-top walks, you’ll love it here. Read on for our guide to the town.

What to see and do

Start with the main beach. This horseshoe-shaped bay has coarse sand and calm, clear water. Behind it, a pedestrian promenade is packed with cafés and restaurants. Pull up a chair, grab a coffee and watch the boats bob about. Beaches here get busy in summer, so go early in the morning or late in the afternoon.

Next, follow the Camí de Ronda, the coastal path that winds along the Costa Brava. An easy 4 km stretch leads north to Aiguablava, one of the most photographed coves in the area. Alternatively, head south past Cala dels Liris, where a century-old fishing hut stands. The path continues to the tiny bay of Cala Pedrosa. Then it climbs to the Sant Sebastià lighthouse before dropping down to Llafranc. Wear sturdy shoes and carry plenty of water.

Fancy a longer hike? The trail from Tamariu to Begur covers about 8 km one way. Once there, climb up to the Begur Castle viewpoint. Little remains of the castle itself, but the 360-degree views are superb. You can see the town, the coast and even the Medes Islands. Best of all, it costs nothing to visit.

Of course, the sea is the real star. Hire a kayak or paddleboard and paddle round to the pretty cove of Aigua Xelida. Snorkelling is excellent too, thanks to the clear water and rocky shoreline. Want to go deeper? A local dive centre offers scuba lessons, equipment hire and boat trips to nearby dive sites.

Hungry after all that walking? Tamariu’s beachfront restaurants serve fresh seafood and classic Empordà dishes. Many have terraces overlooking the bay. Order a plate of grilled prawns, add a glass of local white wine, and enjoy the view.

Garden lovers should visit the Cap Roig Botanical Garden near Calella de Palafrugell. A Russian colonel and his English wife created it in 1927. Today, it holds over a thousand plant species, sculptures and an iconic castle. The paths offer glorious views over the sea. Guided tours are available too. Buy tickets and skip the queue.

Art fans can take a day trip into Dalí country. The Gala Dalí Castle in Púbol is a short drive inland. Salvador Dalí gave the medieval castle to his wife Gala, then decorated its rooms himself. Long-legged elephant sculptures stand in the garden. Further north, the Dalí Theatre-Museum in Figueres is famously the largest surrealist object in the world. Each museum needs its own ticket. Buy tickets and skip the queue.

Finally, history lovers can explore the medieval villages of Pals and Peratallada. Their stone lanes and old walls make a lovely change from the beach. Both make an easy day out by car.

Local festivals and traditions

Summer is party season in Tamariu. Each August, locals celebrate the Festa Major with concerts, dances and family shows. Communal meals, such as rice feasts and sausage barbecues, bring everyone together. In addition, expect children’s activities, a hot chocolate treat and the traditional ball del fanalet, or lantern dance.

Music plays a big part too. On the first Saturday of September, local groups sing havaneres on the main beach. These sea songs began in nineteenth-century Cuba and became a Costa Brava tradition. Locals often enjoy rom cremat, a flaming rum drink, alongside the tunes. Bring a jumper, because sea breezes can feel cool at night.

Nearby villages join in as well. Llafranc holds its own havaneres night on the first Saturday of August. Meanwhile, the Cap Roig Festival usually fills the botanical garden with summer concerts. Big names such as Norah Jones and Bob Dylan have played there. You may also spot the sardana, Catalonia’s circle dance, at local celebrations.

Where to stay

Tamariu is small, so the area you pick matters. Here’s a quick guide to the best areas. Each part of the village offers a different experience.

First-timers should choose the seafront by the main beach. Some places let you step from your door onto the sand. Cafés, restaurants and the promenade sit right outside. Consequently, this area suits families and anyone who wants everything close by.

Prefer views and peace? Look at the hillside streets above the bay. Villas and apartments here overlook the water, and the views are fabulous. However, you’ll face a steep walk back from the beach.

Walkers should stay at the southern end near Cala dels Liris. From there, the coastal path to Cala Pedrosa and the lighthouse starts close by. Meanwhile, the northern end by the rocky Aiguadolça cove is peaceful, and a viewpoint sits nearby.

You can also base yourself in Llafranc, Calella de Palafrugell or Begur. These larger spots offer more shops and restaurants, and each is a short trip away. Whichever you choose, book early for July and August. Book your accommodation.

How to get to Tamariu

Tamariu has no train station, so you finish your journey by road. Most visitors pass through Palafrugell, just a few minutes away. A taxi from Palafrugell takes about 10 minutes.

The closest airport is Girona–Costa Brava Airport, about 45 km from Palafrugell. From there, the drive to Tamariu takes around 45 minutes. Alternatively, fly into Barcelona–El Prat Airport, roughly 135 km away. Both airports handle plenty of flights from the UK.

Book flights.

Trains help with the first part of the trip. Take a train from Barcelona to Girona, or ride the Portbou line to Flaçà. A bus stop opposite Flaçà station has regular services to Palafrugell. Check trains and book.

Buses work well too. Regular services link Barcelona and Girona with Palafrugell, and the trip from Girona takes just over an hour. From Palafrugell, a local bus runs on to Tamariu. However, services change with the seasons, so check the timetable first. Buy tickets.

Hiring a car gives you the most freedom, especially for day trips to Púbol and Pals. Hire a car.

Driving is simple. Take the AP-7 motorway to Girona, then follow the C-66 towards La Bisbal and Palamós. Leave at the Palafrugell Nord exit and follow signs to Tamariu. Parking is limited in summer, so arrive early. Already in Spain? Get directions.