Laza is a small but vibrant town with a population of around 1,000 residents in the province of Ourense, Galicia. This charming mountain village is best known for its extraordinary carnival celebration called the Entroido. The festival features the famous Peliqueiros, masked figures who chase participants through the streets whilst cracking whips and pelting crowds with mud and flour.
The town sits in the heart of rural Galicia, surrounded by rolling green hills and traditional stone villages. Laza represents authentic Galician culture at its finest, largely untouched by mass tourism. The carnival tradition here dates back centuries, rooted in pre-Christian celebrations that have survived remarkably intact. These ancient rituals give Laza a unique cultural significance that extends far beyond its small size.
For most of the year, Laza maintains the peaceful rhythm of traditional village life. Stone houses line narrow cobbled streets, and locals gather in small bars to share wine and conversation. However, during the days before Ash Wednesday, this quiet village transforms into one of Spain’s most exhilarating destinations. The Entroido celebration draws thousands of visitors who come to experience this remarkable spectacle firsthand.
The Entroido carnival is undoubtedly Laza’s main attraction and takes place annually in February or early March. The Peliqueiros wear elaborate costumes featuring colourful striped outfits, devil-like masks, and distinctive hats adorned with feathers. They carry cowbells that create a thunderous sound as they run through the streets. The tradition includes several unique events, including the “Farrapada” on Sunday, when participants throw mud-soaked rags at each other. Monday brings the “Fariñada,” where flour takes centre stage in an all-white battle.
The carnival’s highlight occurs on Tuesday with the “Testamento do Burro,” or donkey’s will. This satirical ceremony involves reading a mock will that humorously critiques local and national events. The festivities conclude with burning an effigy, symbolically ending the carnival period. Experiencing the Entroido requires stamina and a willingness to get thoroughly messy, but it’s genuinely unforgettable.
Beyond carnival season, Laza offers peaceful village life and beautiful countryside walks. The surrounding area features typical Galician landscapes with ancient stone walls, chestnut forests, and mountain streams. The town’s traditional architecture provides photo opportunities, with granite houses and narrow medieval streets. Several small bars and restaurants serve authentic Galician cuisine, including the region’s famous octopus and locally produced wines.
The nearby town of Verín, just 8 kilometres away, hosts its own carnival celebration and offers additional amenities. The broader region provides opportunities to explore rural Galicia’s natural beauty and discover traditional village life.
Laza sits in southeastern Galicia, approximately 90 kilometres from the city of Ourense. The town lies close to the Portuguese border, making it accessible from northern Portugal as well. By car from Ourense, the journey takes about an hour via the N-525 highway. The drive passes through beautiful Galician countryside with mountain views and traditional villages.
Public transport options are limited due to Laza’s small size and rural location. Buses connect the town to Ourense and nearby Verín, though services are infrequent outside carnival season. During the Entroido festival, special bus services operate from larger cities to accommodate visitors. The nearest train station is in Ourense, which connects to major Spanish cities including Madrid and Santiago de Compostela.
For international visitors, the closest airports are Vigo Airport, approximately 100 kilometres away, and Santiago de Compostela Airport, about 150 kilometres distant. Porto Airport in Portugal is roughly 140 kilometres from Laza and often offers competitive international flight options. Renting a car provides the most practical way to reach Laza and explore the surrounding region.
If you’re planning to visit during carnival, book accommodation well in advance. Many visitors stay in nearby Verín or Ourense and travel to Laza for the festivities. The roads can become congested during carnival days, so arriving early is advisable.