Hernani: The Basque Town of Art, Cider and Old Stone Streets
Hernani sits quietly beside the River Urumea, just nine kilometres from San Sebastián. It’s small, historic, and full of surprises. Firstly, its old town still keeps its medieval layout, protected once by sturdy walls. Secondly, it’s home to one of the Basque Country’s most striking art museums.
Because Hernani sits so close to the coast, it makes a brilliant day trip or a quieter alternative base. Meanwhile, apple orchards and cider houses cover the surrounding hills. So, whether you love art, history, or a good glass of cider, this town delivers all three. Let’s take a closer look.
What to see and do
Start with the town’s biggest draw, the Chillida-Leku Museum. This open-air gallery showcases work by sculptor Eduardo Chillida, set across eleven hectares of parkland. Around 40 monumental sculptures sit among beech and oak trees, while the restored Zabalaga farmhouse holds smaller pieces indoors. Because the museum only opens certain days each month, checking the calendar first really helps. Buy tickets and skip the queue.
Next, wander into Hernani’s old town, officially protected as a Monumental Ensemble. The Town Hall anchors the square, easily spotted thanks to its twin domes. Right beside it stands the Church of San Juan Bautista, dating from the 16th century. Inside, you’ll find the tomb of Juan de Urbieta, a notable local historical figure.
Afterwards, look out for the Zapa Arch, one of the few surviving gates from the old town wall. Nearby, the Convent of San AgustÃn anchors one edge of the historic centre. Meanwhile, the Tower of the Gentiles, also known as Casa Portalondo, adds another medieval touch to the streets.
For something wilder, head towards Mount Santa Bárbara, right above the town centre. From here, sweeping views stretch across the whole Urumea Valley. Hiking trails wind through nearby forests too, some passing prehistoric dolmens and cromlechs. The Igoin-Akola Dolmen makes a particularly rewarding target for curious walkers.
Finally, don’t skip a proper Basque cider house meal. The Urumea River even earned the nickname “the cider river,” since barrels once travelled downstream by boat. Local sidrerÃas serve up cod omelette, grilled steak, and plenty of fresh cider straight from the barrel.
Local festivals and traditions
Hernani’s biggest celebration is San Joan Jaiak, held every year between 23 and 27 June. These lively festivities honour Saint John the Baptist, the town’s patron saint. Expect concerts, fireworks, giants and big-heads parading through the streets, and food stalls everywhere you look.
The most iconic moment, though, is the Azeri Dantza, or fox dance. This centuries-old tradition sees dancers weave through the old town, dragging a rope behind them. Because unsuspecting onlookers sometimes get caught up in it too, locals treat it as a fun rite of passage. It usually takes place on 25, 26 and 27 June, starting from Gudarien Plaza each morning.
Before the main festivities begin, the Akelarre and bonfire light up the old town on the eve of San Juan. Afterwards, the Preludio, a smaller warm-up event, brings music and dancing to the square. Throughout the celebrations, traditional Basque instruments, such as txistus and txalapartas, add a proper folk soundtrack.
Later in the year, Hernani also celebrates Carnival with its Caldereros parade. Locals dress as tinkers and gypsies, marching through the streets while banging pots and pans. It’s a playful, noisy tradition that always draws a good crowd.
Where to stay
For the best mix of history and convenience, choose accommodation in Hernani’s old town. You’ll be steps from the main square, the church, and several cosy cider houses. This area suits travellers who want an authentic Basque atmosphere without the San Sebastián crowds.
Prefer greener surroundings? Look towards the outskirts near Chillida-Leku instead. Guesthouses here sit closer to walking trails and offer quieter evenings after a day of sightseeing. It’s also a handy base if you’re planning to explore Mount Santa Bárbara on foot.
Alternatively, many visitors base themselves in San Sebastián and visit Hernani as a half-day trip. This option works well if you also want beaches, pintxos bars, and a buzzier evening scene. Whichever you pick, book ahead during the San Juan festivities in June, since rooms disappear fast. Book your accommodation.
How to get to Hernani
By air, the nearest option is San Sebastián Airport, around 20 kilometres away. Many travellers also fly into Bilbao Airport, which has considerably more international connections. From either airport, buses and taxis reach Hernani within roughly an hour. Book flights.
By train, aim first for San Sebastián, which has strong rail links across Spain and into France. From the station there, a short bus ride covers the final stretch to Hernani. Check trains and book.
By car, Hernani sits just off the GI-131 road, roughly nine kilometres from San Sebastián. Driving makes it easy to combine Hernani with nearby towns and cider houses in one trip. Hire a car. Already in Spain? Get directions.
By bus, the BU05 line connects San Sebastián directly with Hernani and Chillida-Leku. Services run roughly every half hour, making buses a simple, low-stress option. Buy tickets.
However you arrive, Hernani rewards a little patience. Slow down, wander the old streets, and let the town’s quiet charm win you over.