Where to Eat in Palencia
Palencia is a food lover’s secret, and it deserves a spot on your Spanish itinerary. This calm Castilian city sits in the middle of rich farming country, so its cooking is honest, hearty and full of flavour. Roast suckling lamb, known as lechazo, is the star dish. Cooks roast it in a clay dish in a wood-fired oven, using only salt, water and a little lard. Next, try the menestra palentina, a classic local stew, and the garlicky Castilian soup. Local cheese, black pudding and almond biscuits round things off. Meanwhile, wines from Cigales, Arlanza and nearby Ribera del Duero fill your glass. A lively new wave of chefs now adds a modern twist. Sweet tooth? Look for almendrados and amarguillos, two local almond pastries. The compact centre is also easy to explore on foot, so you can hop from tapas bar to restaurant without a car. Below, we share the best places to eat in Palencia. Also, read our guide to the menú del día, because lunch is often the best deal in town.
Traditional restaurants
First, the classics. These places serve big flavours, generous portions and fair prices. Most sit in the compact city centre, so you can easily mix a tapas stop with a long, relaxed lunch.
La Traserilla is known for creative twists on Castilian dishes, served across three floors near Calle Mayor. A cheaper tapas bar sits on the ground floor. It scores 4.4 on Google from over 2,300 reviews. Reviewers often praise the tasty, well-presented plates and the comfortable, welcoming rooms. Get directions.
Restaurante Asador La Encina is famous for its potato omelette and roast churra lamb, cooked in an adobe oven over oak wood. It holds 4.2 on Google from around 1,600 reviews. Diners often say the lamb is so tender that the bones come back clean. They also enjoy the tripe and the ribeye steak. Get directions.
Los Candiles de Toño is known for meat cooked on hot stone, plus a proper Palencian stew. It scores 4.3 on Google from nearly 1,900 reviews. Reviewers praise the grilled octopus, the baked turbot and the generous portions. Friendly service gets lots of mentions. However, a few diners found some dishes bland. Get directions.
La Tasca is an old-style tavern known for Palencian black pudding, suckling lamb chops and marinated dogfish. Its Google score is 4.2 from nearly 400 reviews. Guests like the big portions and the Ribera del Duero wines. Some find prices a touch high. Even so, most feel the authentic experience is worth it. Get directions.
Restaurante El Perejil is known for tasty platters and a daily menu of home-style dishes. It earns 4.4 on Google from about 1,200 reviews. Reviewers rave about the garlic soup, stuffed peppers, mushrooms and lamb. The room is small, so book ahead. Service can slow down when the place gets busy. Get directions.
La Barra de Villoldo is known for crispy patatas bravas with a spicy tomato sauce. You can sit outside in the small square behind San Miguel church. It scores 4.2 on Google from nearly 1,400 reviews. Reviewers love the setting and the gluten-free options. Service gets mixed comments, so go with patience. Get directions.
Bar Perico is a buzzing tapas bar known for its huevos perico, crispy boiled-egg croquettes. It holds 4.3 on Google from around 1,600 reviews. Diners also praise the bravas, the grilled scallops and the local natural cider. The bar gets busy. Even so, reviewers say the staff stay quick and friendly. Get directions.
La Mejillonera is a classic tapas stop known for seafood and what many call the best patatas bravas around. It has one of the city’s top scores, 4.5 on Google from over 6,200 reviews. Reviewers say it works well for a snack before a bigger meal. A few note that prices run slightly high. Get directions.
Fine dining restaurants
Palencia’s fine dining scene is small, yet it punches above its weight. Book ahead for all of these. Prices stay well below those in Madrid or Barcelona, which makes a special meal easy to justify.
Terra is the city’s star. Chef Roberto Terradillos trained at El Celler de Can Roca and Akelaře, then came home to cook modern dishes with Palencian roots. It holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand and scores 4.7 on Google from nearly 600 reviews. Reviewers praise the warm service and original flavours. A weekday lunch menu keeps it affordable, and the place suits a long, relaxed meal. Get directions.
Ajo de Sopas is known for Castilian cooking with a creative twist and beautiful presentation. The Michelin Guide has recognised it, and it scores 4.5 on Google from over 2,000 reviews. Reviewers praise the quality ingredients, and many say they have visited several times. You will find it close to the Salón park. Get directions.
Diecinueve is the newest name on the scene. The Castilla y León Gastronomy Awards named it their gastronomic revelation for contemporary, fire-led cooking. Chef Iván Gil and front-of-house manager María Palmero lead the team. Its cooking focuses on quality local produce and live fire. It sits on Calle Mayor Principal, so it is easy to find. Get directions.
Restaurante San Remo is known for quality meat and seafood in a smart, warm dining room. It scores 4.2 on Google from around 1,500 reviews. Reviewers praise the attentive service, the sangria and the staff’s care with coeliac diners. A few find it pricey. Still, most say it is worth the splurge. Get directions.
Budget friendly restaurants
Eating well in Palencia does not cost much. These three spots prove it. Also, look out for the menú del día at lunchtime, when many places offer three courses, bread and a drink for one fixed price.
Bar Maño is known for a great-value set menu, often around €13. It features the Palencian stew and patatas a la importancia, which are fried potatoes in a light sauce. It scores 4.3 on Google from over 2,100 reviews. Reviewers love the torreznos, the bravas and the friendly owner. Get directions.
Moesia is known for good-value menus and big burgers with plenty of sauces. A three-course menu with bread and wine has cost around €18. It scores 4.1 on Google from more than 2,600 reviews. Reviewers like the friendly staff and large portions. However, opinions on a few dishes vary. Get directions.
Restaurante Bocoy is known for crispy torreznos and squid with lime mayonnaise. It holds 4.4 on Google from around 550 reviews. Reviewers praise the generous portions, the good service and the value for money. A couple of diners found the croquettes average. Get directions.
Palencia’s best tables fill up at weekends, so read our tips on booking restaurants in Spain. Also, check how meal times work in Spain, because kitchens open late. Planning more Castilian feasts? Then see where to eat in Valladolid and Burgos. Finally, start your day with a local pastry and a coffee for a sweet taste of Palencia. Buen provecho!