Valls: Human Towers, Calçots and Catalan Charm

Valls is a lively market town in Catalonia, and it deserves a place on your Spain list. It sits in the Alt Camp region, just inland from the Costa Dorada. Better still, it is the birthplace of two big Catalan traditions. First, there is the calçot, a sweet spring onion that locals grill and dip in rich sauce. Second, there are the castells, the famous human towers.

Even so, Valls stays refreshingly calm. You will find a medieval old town, great food and friendly locals. Read on to plan your trip.

What to see and do

Start in Plaça del Blat. Locals call it the kilometre zero of the casteller world. The biggest tower-building days happen here, so the square feels special even when it is quiet. Nearby, you can spot the monument that honours the Xiquets de Valls, the town’s tower builders.

Next, walk a few steps to the Museu Casteller de Catalunya. It opened in September 2023, and it explains how the towers work and why people love them. The museum uses 22 projections to tell the story. Then the Enxaneta 360º experience lets you relive the Santa Úrsula celebrations in Plaça del Blat. Tickets can sell out around festival dates, so book ahead. Buy tickets and skip the queue.

After that, head up to the Església de Sant Joan. Its bell tower is the tallest in Catalonia, at 74 metres. Sunset visits to the tower run as seasonal experiences, so check with the tourist office first. Close by, the Capella del Roser holds one of the finest pieces of 17th-century Catalan ceramics. It shows scenes from the Battle of Lepanto.

For a change of pace, visit the Museu de Valls. It holds a collection of Catalan art from the last 120 years. Meanwhile, history fans can explore the Refugi antiaeri, an air-raid shelter that tells the story of Valls between 1931 and 1979. Music lovers should look at the Espai Robert Gerhard, which celebrates the composer who was born in the town.

Then, simply wander. The old town has narrow streets, small squares and a few remains of the medieval walls. On the outskirts, the 18th-century Santuari del Lledó honours the town’s patron saint. Her image was reportedly found in 1366. If you fancy a show, the Teatre Principal has a busy programme.

No visit is complete without a good meal. From November to the end of February, many local restaurants serve calçots with a rich dipping sauce. Locals pair them with grilled meats and a glass of regional wine. Afterwards, browse the town’s markets to pick up fresh produce and tasty souvenirs.

Valls also makes a handy base for day trips. Tarragona and its Roman ruins are about 20 minutes away. Likewise, Reus, the birthplace of Gaudí, is even closer. For wine fans, Vilafranca del Penedès is a tasty detour.

Local festivals and traditions

The biggest date in the diary is the Gran Festa de la Calçotada. It takes place on the last Sunday of January, and it kicks off the calçot season. Thousands of visitors fill the streets. You can watch cooking demos, browse stalls and join the calçot-eating contest. Tasting tickets include a bib, which you will need. Sadly, they often sell out online, so plan early. Fun fact: Salvador Dalí was once named Calçotaire Major of Catalonia in Valls.

Of course, the human towers steal the show too. UNESCO has listed the castells as Intangible Cultural Heritage since 2010. Valls has two famous teams, Colla Joves and Colla Vella dels Xiquets de Valls. Each October, they build towers in Plaça del Blat for the Santa Úrsula festival. The main day falls on 21 October. Locals also celebrate the Festa Major de Sant Joan around 24 June, with more towers and plenty of music.

Other events are worth a look as well. In January, the Tres Tombs de Sant Antoni brings a parade through town. During Easter, Holy Week processions fill the old streets. In addition, a wine event called Valls va de vins draws foodies in spring. If you want a smaller taste of tradition, ask the tourist office about casteller rehearsals. These are open to the public, and they feel wonderfully local. Visitors are always welcome to watch and cheer along.

Where to stay

Valls is compact, so you can stay almost anywhere and still walk to the sights. Even so, a few areas suit different travellers.

The old town is the best choice for first-time visitors. Here you will be steps from Plaça del Blat, the Museu Casteller and the church. Evenings feel atmospheric, and the best restaurants are close by. Alternatively, look near Plaça del Pati and Plaça dels Quarters. These spots host markets and festival events, so they buzz during busy weekends.

If you plan to arrive by train, consider a place near the station. It keeps luggage stress low, and the old town is an easy walk. Meanwhile, couples and wine lovers may prefer a rural stay in the Alt Camp countryside. Farmhouses and small guesthouses offer quiet nights and lovely views. You will need a car, though.

Accommodation is limited during the calçotada and Santa Úrsula, so book early. You can also base yourself in nearby Tarragona or Reus and visit Valls for the day. For local tips, the Valls tourism website lists places to sleep. Book accommodation securely with Booking.com.

How to get to Valls

Reus Airport is the closest, about 25 km away. It is also the quickest option, as flights land close to town. Alternatively, Barcelona–El Prat Airport is roughly 100 km away. It has far more routes, which makes it a good choice if you are flying from further afield. Check both before you book, because Reus may have better deals from your home airport. Check flights & Buy Tickets with Booking.com.

The train is a great option from Barcelona. The R13 line runs from Barcelona to Valls, and it carries on to Lleida. Valls station is a short walk from the old town. Check Train Schedules & Buy Tickets on Omio.

Buses are handy too. Monbus runs a direct service between Reus and Valls, and it takes about 45 minutes. Check Bus Schedules & Buy Tickets on Omio.

Prefer to drive? You can hire a car at Reus Airport or in Barcelona. Hire a car with Discovercars. From Tarragona, the drive takes about 20 minutes. From Barcelona, expect around an hour and a quarter. Parking is easier on the edge of the old town. Already in Spain? Get directions.

With human towers, grilled calçots and a charming old town, Valls rewards every visitor. Pack your appetite and enjoy the trip.